Now and Then

We did it. It was still windy, not as bad as yesterday.  A few rain showers, but they made everything seem brighter when they moved on. 

Ralph wanted to get an early start so Ann made sure she got up early.  We were on the road by 7:07am it was 53 degrees.  Ann let Ralph start behind the wheel into the sun today.  We were in Iowa farm country today.  Hwy. 151 has proven to be a great road between Cedar Rapids, IA, and FonduLac WI.  

HWI 151 crosses the Mississippi at Dubuque.  Half way across the river we enter Wisconsin. 

Wisconsin, each time we enter the state we discuss where we would rather live.  For the sake of taxes yes there are other places that are appealing.  For the sake of beauty we never come up with an alternate.  Even after that winter snow storm we see beauty, as the sun sparkles on the snow.

Other places we have seen have miles and miles of nothing.  In Wisconsin we see miles and miles  of farm fields, however they are interspersed with farm homes.

We happen to notice a few cars pass us from Nebraska.  Then more and more.  Finally Ralph realizes they must be on there way to Madison as Nebraska and Wisconsin have a important football game tomorrow night.

We stop in Waupun for lunch with Merrill, and Jean.  (Ralph’s sister and brother-in-law.)  Then it is the last leg.  We are greeted with some short hard showers that help clean the windshield for a better view of Sheboygan County, and the color beginning in the Kettle Moraine.  We arrived home at 3:20pm it is still only 53 degrees.

We turn the heat on and settle in.  Ralph and Luke review the road traveled. 

5361 miles added to our camper.  5644 miles added to our eyes.

We are home and we were

Blessed.

Yes it was a slow day in many ways.  We made less miles per hour, in both time and gas.  Plus Ann was slow in getting out of bed, so we did not get on the road until 8:30.

However we turned onto the Kansas Turnpike and were glad for our chosen route.  The road is in wonderful condition.  Ann is driving this morning, if it were not for the wind she could really cruse.

The land in some areas is so flat that you can see forever.

Occasionally we see a small oil rig. 

Sometimes there are several in a field working away. 

And the wind blows on.

Our Turnpike ends just before Kansas City.  From here Ralph will drive for a while.  We take the northern belt line around per instructions from the lady in the GPS, and cross from Kansas into Missouri.  The trees are beginning to show color. 

The farther north we drive the more color we see.  There is some sort of vine that grows up the trees that has a leaf that turns red, while the leaves of the tree turn a different color.

The fields of soy beans are drying in both northern Missouri and Iowa.

And the wind blows on.

Just four miles from our stop for the day traffic slows down to a crawl.  We wonder what is causing the problem.  Then we see road work signs.  Rush hour traffic is to move down to one lane.  We do.  Only there is no work going on.  Only two signs telling drivers the left lane is closed backing traffic up for almost four miles. 

So tonight we shall sleep cool it is already down to 64 degrees.  With another 456 miles closer to home.  If all goes well we shall sleep in Sheboygan, WI tomorrow night.

Even a long day on the road can be interesting.  We started 8:30 this morning with our overnight low of 63 degrees at 4008 ft.

That would be plenty early except after only 30 miles we entered Texas and the central time zone.

As we moved east through Texas then Oklahoma we became aware of all the RV units moving west.  We had seen some every day but today there were a lot of them.  We wondered how many were snow birds heading for there winter roost.

We did talk to a couple in a rest area that were heading to Green Bay.  They had been on the road with their unit for two weeks with a visit to Red Rock Canyon.

In Oklahoma the wind is blowing from the south.  Ralph comments that is why the trees lean north, because these winds are not unusual.

In Oklahoma the land also changes.  The red earth begins to turn brown, and the hills flatten out.  However it is still 95 degrees.

Yesterday we decided we would head north from Oklahoma City on I35.  We have never traveled that road before.  We might see something different.  What we saw is areas that were burned, and how the fire crossed the road back and forth.

We crossed rivers in the area that are almost dried up.

We have crossed into Kansas, and are camped just 20mi from the state line. 

From this point I35 is a toll road all the way to Kansas City.  However the road has a wonderful smooth surface, and very few trucks.  We shall see what tomorrow brings.      So far we have seen no signs of Dorothy. 

We traveled 501 miles today and are down to 1205 ft.

Our first stop this morning was just a short drive from last nights campground.  The drive into the park has many many places people want you to spend money.  Luke would have liked to stop.  However we do not have room in any of our houses. 

Once again if the government had not developed a park in the area, everything would be harvested and sold.

We arrived in the Petrified Forest National Park shortly after it opened this morning.  The young Ranger was in a friendly mood.

We are able to walk around easily.  Then went into the museum foe more information.   The trees are now rock having absorbed minerals thousands of years ago in a complicated set of circumstances.  My suggestion,  if you are interested in the subject; Google it to learn more about it.  It is just to much information for this space.  However it is very interesting.  

We walked among homes that were built between A.D. 1250 and 1500

Ralph enjoyed taking pictures of flowers in bloom.  Then started to sneeze as if it were Spring.

We were glad we came early there was little traffic.  When we saw something special along the road we could just stop.  There were nine in the group.  We watched until the ran off.

From there we went to the Painted Desert portion of the park.  When you cross 40 the first stop is a tribute to the the old Route 66.  Today Mother Nature has reclaimed this section.

We stopped  at several lookouts in the area.  Ralph has many beautiful pictures he took today. 

Then on to what was the Painted Desert Inn at one time. 

Ralph got a picture of a raven.  When we came into the park we saw a group of them taking care of some road kill.  We had to ask to be sure what the were as they were larger then any we have ever seen.  

While we were there several non English speaking groups came in.  Yes Ann asked.  The group on Harleys were from Germany, and Switzerland.  The flew into California, rented bikes and a guide.  The other group was from Italy.  they had flown into Phoenix, AZ and were traveling around the state for a week.  

Yes Luke checked everything out as well, before we are on our way.

We saw natural gas plants.  There was a large, wild, long lasting dust devil.   

In Albuquerque, NM. were many interesting bridges.

We ended our day in Tucumcari, NM.  Their claim to fame is the restoration efforts to save the memory of Route 66. Ralph says: Since we were here 5 years ago “newer isn’t always better” They have some very good murals.

Tomorrow we will continue east.  Soon we will be in Sheboygan, by the Lake.  we have not seen much water (other then in bottles) in a while.

We left our parking lot casino camp ground at Pahrump, NV shortly after 7 am today.  We were not sure where we would end the day.  We decided to drive the 60 mi south toward Las Vegas then skirt the south side of it to cross the new bridge at the Hoover Dam.  Continuing south from there.

It still amazes us as to how much rough land there is in this country.

The last time we drove this way we were able to cross the dam with the RV. Ann took a picture of the bridge being constructed.  Feb. 2007. Today Ann went to sit on the couch so she could get a good picture of the dam this time from the bridge.  We never even saw it.  Nor do you realize you are on a bridge.

2007

When we reached the overlook for the Colorado River we stopped.  Today there was a young Indian man that was making and selling jewelry.  the last time we stopped an elderly man was painting.  From here Ann will take the wheel.  She has not driven much in recent days.

After 70 more miles we enter Interstate 40.  It is the first time driving on interstate highway since last Friday.

Our original plan was to drive as far as Williams, AZ then head north to the Grand Canyon.  However it has been a very hazy day.  Having just been there three years ago we decide to move on rather than not be able to see the canyon in the haze.

Traveling down I40 we see an area where it looked like they are mining lava rock.  Those little chucks that they sell in garden centers.  Plus we find a place for Roberta and Kaleigh.

We make a stop along the way at Meteor Crater.  It is a strange area where rock formations just pop up out of the ground.

Saw a lizard too.

We decide to drive on to Holbrook, AZ then tomorrow we will go to the Petrified Forest National Park.  The last time we were in this area we drove by, not stopping.  This time we will take it all in. 

But we will skip the tourist traps.      

We are a little confused tonight.  The map says we are on Mountain time, but the self changing clocks have not changed from Pacific time.  So it is almost dark at 6:30 but still 78 degrees.

This was the day we had discussed often.  It was the day we would cross Death Valley.  When we first planned this trip we thought we would cross in early May when the high temperatures were in the upper 80’s, now in September when we are finally here they are in the 100’s.  After much consideration we decide to leave early, but not until day light.  We leave at 6:15am, it is 67 degrees.  With an elevation of 3665. 

Ralph has talked with several locals that have given him advice.  Today we are glad that we made the trip all the way across.  Many people come in from Las Vegas go as far as Furnace Creek then go back to Las Vegas.

We spend the first 30 miles is south east with mountains on one side and a dry lake bed on the other.  The road is straight and the sun rise beautiful.

There are Joshua Trees growing in this area.

Then as we swing east along Hwy 190 we enter the actual park.

It starts out with the most interesting driving experience.  Ann is glad Ralph is behind the wheel, he truly knows how to handle this truck.  The road is very narrow if Ann opened her window she only had to put her hand out and she would be able to touch the side.  As if that were not enough the road curved as well as went up and down hills.  Plus this was the area Ralph had been warned that there could be rocks on the road, and there were.  In the anxiety of the moment Ann forgets to take pictures until we are almost beyond this point.

Ann tried to get a picture of the gas prices in the middle of nowhere, but another sign got in the way.  Regular gas was $5.59 per gallon.  From this point each curve takes us farther down hill.  By 9:26 we are at –126 el. and 100 degrees.  At 9:00 we are at –174 and 101 degrees.    We see a snow plow heading west.  We know there is no snow, but that it is how they remove the rocks from the road.  

We stop at Stove Pipe Wells to check in, however we do not have to pay a fee as we are Seniors.  Ralph liked this stop as he felt this best represented the non commercial  Death Valley.  No way did Ann want to camp here.

We also learn that Death Valley is a dried up lake bed.  It even has sand dunes.

We move on to Furnace Creek.  It has become a true tourist destination.  At one time it was where Borax was processed.  Today it even sports a golf course.c

Soon Luke tells us it is getting to warm in his preferred seat and wants to be under way with the air turned on.  We honor his wishes.  We have been as low as –224 elevation with a high temperature of 109.  We are truly glad we started early.

We see many tour busses coming from the east, plus a group of motorcyclists.  Ann tells Ralph which road to take.  She has it wrong, but ends up at our destination a little earlier than expected. 

So we take time to do a little laundry one more time.  Then check out the casino.

Tonight the story is short and oh so sweet.  We left our campground at 8:45 am the temperature at that time was a mere 75. 

Including new trees as far as the eye could see.

As we went farther, farther south we were among more and more fruit trees and grape vines.  We did not see any wineries advertised, but we saw acre after acre of vines either covered with plastic or being readies to cover.

So when the signs said come and get some, we looked at each other and said why not.  Maybe they will answer our questions.

They did.   

The grape vines are covered because they will become raisons.  They want them out of the rain so they can begin to dry.  Some tree trunks were painted white.  The question was, Is that done for looks or what reason.  They have a bug in the ground that will not climb the trees if the trunk is painted.  Ann purchased some wonderful grapes, dates, nut, and orange juice.  All locally grown.  Then asked, Is that a whole box of  Valencia oranges for $10.00?  Yes.  After we checked out she gave us a bag with six oranges just to try.  They will be picking navel oranges in November and December, however it is very expensive to send them to Wisconsin.

As we go around the corner we are in the Mojave Desert.  Here we watch the temperature rise.

However just down the road from the tonight’s camp ground we find a wonderful green space in the shadow of Mount Whitney for Ralph to play a round of golf.  This is a great birthday present for him.  (Note there is still a little snow up there.)

The camper got a little warm in the parking lot.  So it is time to go back to the RV Park settle in early for an early morning start across death valley.

Like we said Just Around The Corner,  255 miles.

It is a beautiful day.  With a morning temperature of 68 degrees, we wait for our 8:30 am shuttle to head up the hill for a day among big trees.  We knew before leaving home we would not be able to drive into the park with the camper.  Nothing over 22 feet is allowed on this road.  There is a highway north of here you can go in on but our choice of campground was here.

Our driver tells us that this area has lemon and orange trees.  In recent years that been planting pomegranate trees.  They are now ready to start picking from those first trees.  Many new ones are being planted each year.

It is a long ride to the park, just over an hour.  Then once you get into the park it is another one to one and a half hours until you get to the Sequoia trees.  The road in the park has been under construction for more then five years.  It was originally built in the 1930’s.  Through the years it had been repaired but now needed to be rebuilt.  They work on three miles at a time, and are about fourteen miles from the finish line, and that section is in very poor shape.  It becomes obvious why large vehicles can not use this rout.

Then we see trees.  Big trees!  We were told that when they were first discovered and logged, the loggers thought they were really going to get rich off these big trees.  However they soon discovered that the wood was to soft for much use, and only were able to use about 25%.

Today they are surrounded by fences as there roots are only about three feet deep.  Foot traffic around the base wears away the cover soil and exposes the roots.

Today the General Sherman tree has the largest girth.

There are many places to take pictures just for fun.

Most areas of the park are handicapped assessable.  Ann spoke with a gentleman that was visiting the park with his son. He said his knees are getting bad, so it works well for him to be able to rent a scooter.

At our lunch break we discover a taste  of home.  As well as two young men from Germany taking time to catch up electronically.

After lunch we shuttle on over to Moro Rock.  When you start out you do not realize what you are getting into.  It is up, and up, and up some more.  When you get to the top you have climbed almost 300 feet.

We made it slowly but we made it.

However what goes up must come down.

Soon it is time to head back through the construction (we are glad we left the driving to others) from where we can see back up to where we were.

We felt bad for the person driving that little Toyota as the shuttle driver appeared to be in a hurry.

Just over an hour later we are back among the lemon trees.  All in all it was a very good day.

Human nature is an interesting thing.  Over the last few days our humor has gone up and down several times over.  Yosemite made us feel good.  It was an interesting and comfortable place to be.  But once we left the park and our lives were in a unfriendly environment the humor went down.

Today we are well recovered.  The view from our window was changing as many were preparing to leave.  By 8:20 am we were on our way also.  Between then and 8:45 The altitude dropped over a thousand feet and the temperature went up from 59 to 78 degrees.

The low mountains becomes hill country.  Soon we see the pistachio trees in the distance.

By 9:20 we entered California HI 99 and the temp was 89 degrees.

This is a part of the state I was hoping to see.  There is all manner of produce grown here, tomatoes, lettuce, corn some ready for harvest and some several months behind. 

The farther south we travel the more grape vines we see.  They look a little different then they did in Napa.  Soon we see signs for Sun Maid raisons.  The orchards no longer look like nut trees.  With there tops shaved off.  Yes, they grow plumbs here as well.  

We exit at Visalia where we are greeted at the KOA by a friendly hostess.  From there we head into town to find a Wal-Mart.  Again we are surprised at the lack of quality of the grocery area. However they have several Save Marts in the area and they are wonderful. They even had an area set up for locally produced products. 

We are back at the KOA by two and set up our house. 

Ralph makes our reservation for a day trip into Sequoia.  Our house is to big to handle some  of the curves so we have to leave it behind.  Our hostess has volunteered her husband to take us to and pick us up from the nearest shuttle site.  Ralph is happy to be hooked up to an electronic secure site.  Ann is just happy to be hooked up.

What a beautiful day we had again today.  We learned yesterday that once the sun comes over the hill it warms up fast.  Today our jackets were left at home. 

As we boarded the bus at 8:15 am it was 57 degrees.  It took us one and a half hours to ride into the drop off point.  The bus was not as full today as yesterday.  Today there were three or four seats that remained empty.  Yesterday by the time we reached the Visitors center there were people standing in the isle.

Today’s driver was much more talkative.  We learned a lot of history about the road in.  From early trains, that stopped running in 1949.  To the wash out last winter, and the rock slide of 2006.  He told us it would take 80,000 truck loads to clear the road, or possibly tunnel through.  However at this time neither the state or the federal government have the money to put up for the project.  plus there are a large amount of people that feel you should just wait your turn to pass.  (It does not take that long after all it is only a quarter mile long.) That is what we were told by a ranger today.

We went on a two hour tram ride today.  Our guide informed us about much of the history, and stopped at the best sights.

Luke slept in Ann’s pouch last night.  He just wanted to be sure he would be on today’s adventure.

We saw view of the valley with El Capitan on the left and off in the distance is Half Moon. Yesterday we saw the Rescue Helicopters flying over.  Today we were told there was a climbing accident on Half Moon yesterday.

In many locations we see markers that tell how high the water got after rain storms occurred on top of snow and frozen ground in January of 1997.  It closed the roads trapping over 2000 people in the park.  No lives were lost. 

Naturalists have been working very hard in the park to maintain as well as bring back lost areas.  At one point this meadow was once a camp and staging area for people wanting to climb El Capitan. 

Once again we here the Rescue Helicopter.  We are now told that yesterday a climber fell from Half Moon and died.  Today they were going back with a sling and a rescuer to bring down the other climber as he cannot climb alone.

A short time later the helicopter comes back over with two men hanging from the sling.  When we get around the corner we see all the emergency vehicles.

After our tour we stopped at the deli restaurant for lunch.  Our bus driver had told us that he believes this will be a record year for attendance.  He thinks it will go over five million.  With all the snow and high water the falls were wonderful, and received a lot of publicity bringing the people out. 

Today however things have quieted down.  Some shops and restaurants have closed for the season.

After lunch Luke takes time to talk to one of the information volunteers, and his friendly Marmoset.  Telling us about the walk to the lower falls,suggesting we may truly enjoy it. 

It is a lovely walk through a avenue of trees.  We see areas that were washed out.  As well as areas that are dry today tempting deer to eat the young growth in the dry bed   

Then you round a corner and cross a bridge for a closer look at the bottom section of the falls.  We watch as people walk the rocks for hoping to touch the water.

We are content just to have our picture taken, and to help others get there pictures taken as well.  Yes, Luke can be a big help with the children.

Then one last look and back to our buss for the long ride back home.

Back at the KOA Luke gets Ann’s laptop up and running so she can get caught up

Tomorrow we hit the road to Visalia and Sequoia National Park.